Julianne

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MYSTIC JIGSAW COAT

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I recently decided that I need to “turn up the volume” on my designs. Y’all were thinking the same thing, right?

msytic jigsaw coat msytic jigsaw coat

msytic jigsaw coat msytic jigsaw coat

This jacket will be perfect for Burning Man, so I recommend buying it from my Etsy shop now!

The shell is a insane upholstery fabric that I can’t imagine on a sofa for the life of me. I can’t decide if it’s psychedelic puzzle pieces or a scrambled sunset. I used minky lining, which is softer than the fluffiest kitten of your dreams. I think it’s a zebra, but it could always be a white tiger. Instead of a wolf in sheep’s clothing it’s a tiger in zebra’s clothing!

Mystic Jigsaw coat Mystic Jigsaw coat

I used plastic boning to keep the hood open, and the stiffness of the fabric keeps it pointing skyward. It’s like the Rainbow chapter of the KKK.

Mystic Jigsaw coat pocket detail Mystic Jigsaw coat pompom detail Mystic Jigsaw coat fringe detail

I absolutely love the teal pompom trim, and who wouldn’t? It’s bright, silly, and kitschy, and the pompoms move when you jump up and down. I used some golden fringe with a tribal design at the hem. It reminds me of tinsel fringe at the bottom of Mardi Gras floats! Basically this jacket is a mish-mash of all my favorite psychedelic fantasties.

Mystic Jigsaw coat zipper

Mystic Jigsaw coat As in all my coats, this one has a two-way zipper. It can be zipped up just like your average hoodie zipper, but there’s a second head that lets you open it up from the bottom. You can wear the jacket like a cape, and the zipper makes it easy to ride a bike and really move your legs without taking it off. Plus it’s bright purple.

I got an ungodly (atheist humor) amount of this fabric, so there will be plenty more pieces made, including vests, a laptop case for Mr. Siadek, and my own playa-rific jacket. Bet you can’t wait!

220

PFAFF UPDATE

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Pfaff 1222e

For more information about the Pfaff 1222E, check out my initial review as well as my tips on threading with industrial cones. Also you can replace the pedal if you have a “runaway” vintage sewing machine.

As many of you know, especially if you follow me on Facebook, I love my Pfaff. Since I’ve been getting a fair amount of site visitors looking for information on the machine, I’ve decided to do an update, now that I’ve been using the machine for about 6 weeks. To recap (and get those search results, cha ching) it’s a 1982 Pfaff 1222E.

This post will probably not be too interesting to most readers, but hopefully I can share some insight with people thinking about getting one of these machines. From what I can tell, the normal price range is $300-400, depending on the machine’s condition and accessories.

My machine came with a CD manual, which I’ve taken the instructional images from.

Pfaff 1222e

This is my first intentionally vintage machine. I learned to sew on a Singer that was probably made at the same time, but it didn’t seem vintage at the time. There have been plenty of older people (mostly women, although plenty of men have asked about that new sewing machine I constantly talk about on Facebook) who laugh at me when I tell them my vintage machine is from 1982, basically thinking I’m so young and naive to consider the early 80s vintage. If I were using a 30-year-old nail clipper, a tool that hasn’t really evolved much over its lifetime, I wouldn’t call it vintage. But a sewing machine that’s older than I am, in an industry that has seen lots of development and digital revolution, for which parts are no longer manufactured, in a throw-away culture? Yes, I consider that vintage, and if you think I’m naive for that then I think you’re outdated and delusional. So there.

Pfaff 1222e free arm

I honestly haven’t used the table extension a single time. I do mostly apparel sewing, and the free arm actually works best for me. It’s smaller than on my last machine, and the perfect size for sleeves or legging hems, coming in at just over 9″. So while I’m definitely glad to have it, I’m glad I didn’t pay $50 for an acrylic table.

Pfaff 1222e stitch dial I’ve grown pretty fond of the setting dials. They are simple but very efficient! The outer ring adjusts stitch width and length, which makes sense if you look at the diagrams on it. The inner knob is for the needle position, which is essential in some of the decorative stitches, which are set through buttons on the top of the machine.

It took me a little while to figure out my favorite stitch settings, which I’ve marked with rhinestones. They’re removable if I ever change my preferences, and also delightful.

This dial also has a knob to adjust the needle position from left to right, which is essential for some of the decorative stitches.

Because you manually set the stitch settings (with dials), the machine doesn’t reset when you turn it off or move to a different stitch. This may be obvious, but it’s an extra step for those who are used to modern digitized machines.

One feature of the machine that may be worth noting is the automatic needle position: there is none. Whereas my last Singer would automatically pull the needle up to its highest position when I took my foot off the presser pedal (making it easy to pull the fabric out from the machine), and the industrial Juki I use at work puts the needle at its lowest position (so that I can pivot the fabric without losing my place), the Pfaff leaves the needle wherever in the stitch it is when I remove my foot. Despite the power and speed of the machine though, it’s pretty easy to take my foot off exactly where in the stitch I want the Pfaff to stop. I can stop the needle at its highest point to remove the fabric, or have it all the way down to hold the fabric in place. Of course I could always turn the wheel the reposition the needle, but who would want to do that?

Pfaff 1222e needle threader

I have never been able to use an automatic threader on any machine I’ve ever used. I simply can’t understand them, and I have no problem threading a needle the old-fashioned way. Vintage all the way baby!

pfaff 1222e matchmaker Pfaff 1222e walking foot

One neat little feature is this lever that can hook onto the presser foot. This takes the pressure off the foot, allowing you to match stripes and plaids easier. The Pfaff has a built-in walking foot! It’s called the Matchmaker foot. Occasionally fabric gets caught on the plastic piece, but it’s not really an issue. My biggest caution about the lever is to not leave it engaged all the time: because it reduces the pressure from the foot, the feed dogs don’t get a proper grip on the fabric, so stitches might come out wonky.

Pfaff 1222e industrial feet Pfaff 1222e standard foot shank v. industrial foot shank Pfaff 1222e industrial foot

Which brings me to my biggest breakthrough: the Pfaff 1222E can use standard high-shank industrial feet. I absolutely hated the right-hole zipper foot that came with machine, and Pfaff-specific feet can get pretty pricey even without the widest selection. Meanwhile industrial feet are all over the place, and cost about $5-10 each. And they’re made for industrial use, so no worries about quality. The shape of the shank is a little different between the Pfaff and industrial feet, but the industrial shank fit on my machine perfectly (the third photo has a Pfaff foot on top and an industrial foot below; the important thing is that the knob fits into the same place). No other Pfaff site I saw had this insight, but I think the machine’s compatibility with less-expensive industrial feet is a huge bonus!

There is an adapter that lets you use snap-on feet on the Pfaff, but $70 for a foot?! That’s just nuts.

Pfaff 1222e collecting tray

The slightly rounded plate under the free arm collects stray pins and loose threads from rolling around on my desk. I love this little tray!

If any of y’all have any questions about my Pfaff, let me know and I’ll try to answer.

For more information about the Pfaff 1222E, check out my initial review as well as my tips on threading with industrial cones. You can download the stitch pattern chart PDF here.

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EMBROIDERED GYPSY VEST

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I’m very excited about my new design, the Daniella Gypsy Vest! There’s only one of these babies, and it’s in the Etsy shop!

Daniella gypsy vest Daniella gypsy vest Daniella gypsy vest

The pointed front and high back really accentuate the waist, making me feel like a bellydancer. It looks great with a stripey outfit, but can also be worn without a shirt for some sexy festival fun, and maybe the occasional peek of underboob.

Daniella gypsy vest Daniella gypsy vest Daniella gypsy vest

Since I was planning on lining the vest I went ahead and made it reversible, because that’s awesome and so am I. The shell is made out of this amazing embroidered upholstery fabric (which some may recognize from my tribal coat), and it’s no longer available so this is very one-of-a-kind. In fact I had to very carefully cut these pieces from scrap fabric left over from the coat. The front panels of the lining are a quilting cotton that has a bandana-esque print, which allowed me to hide a pocket, the perfect size for a cell phone, cash money, and a couple business cards. The back lining is a pink and red striped jersey that will be very comfortable to wear, and is also a recycled fabric.

Daniella gypsy vest Daniella gypsy vest

I think the black and white twisted trim just sends the vest over the edge (edge of what though?). The placket is a maroon denim with pressed brass snaps, letting you dramatically rip open the vest if you’ve got something exciting to reveal.

Like I said, there’s only one version of this vest and it’s in the Etsy shop now. More fabulous combinations will be coming soon!

This vest was inspired by a design by my friend Danielle, hence the name. Thank you Ms. Danielle for the inspiration, and thank you Mr. Siadek for great photos! Also thanks for taking me to Cirque du Soleil this weekend.

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