Tag Archives: dress

MAMI AFRIKA

11 June 2014 by Julianne

I’ve worked with Wawi Amasha for a few years, and now she’s starting to get really serious about her clothing design. These looks are all hers, but I sewed them for a gallery opening this past weekend. They were presented under the name Mami Afrika.

Sewer, designer, tech designer.Of course I made my purple miimii dress, as well as the blue halter dress on Inobe. Wawi is on the left.

Wawi was showing her paintings at Hamilton Gallery in Santa Monica, and it was a fun party! In our gallery was the artwork, models wearing dresses, wine of course, and African drummers who inspired some fancy dancing.

A neighboring gallery was also hosting an opening, where there was more wine, plus vodka, couscous, gift bags, and a hyper little German man who began our conversations with “I like the look you’re experimenting with on your outfit,” because that’s what you say in Santa Monica. I don’t remember your name, but you were kinda crazy, but also fun.

The fabrics were collected on Wawi’s recent trip to Kenya, and the patterns were drafted by Inobe Nicole, who also made the fabulous geometric necklaces.

I made ten pieces for the show in 4 days, and eventually developed a rhythm for the layout and construction. Sample patterns rarely come with instructions, so it’s up to be to figure out a smooth and efficient technique. Print matching! The finishing on this sleeveless jacket includes french seams, bias bound, double turned hem, and folding seams under.

This purple skirt was my favorite piece, and that amethyst necklace Inobe made is insane!

This dress was another personal favorite.

It was a week of marathon sewing, but the team was very pleased at the outcome. I’ll be doing more work with Wawi soon (like tomorrow!).

Thanks to Sam / Docta Sez for the additional photos!

ZIGZAG DRESS

13 May 2014 by Julianne

I made this dress for my birthday this year, and it was perfect for my bayou birthday party.

yellow zigzag dress, made by Julianne

The dress had to be lined, and since the seams would have been slightly visible through the white areas of the print, I felt like interlining was the only option. Well, sewing two layers of swishy fabric together while keeping the print centered and the grainlines even can be a pain in the ass. In the end it turned out well, but it was a process to get there.

It’s a very basic shift (or sheath) dress. Easy to make, versatile to wear, and simple design lines that allow the fabric to take center stage. I have a few fabulous fabrics that have been patiently waiting in my sewing cabinet, and I think this new pattern will match perfectly.

yellow zigzag dress, made by Julianne

I bought the yellow printed rayon as soon as it came in the door at Fabric Planet Downtown for $3/yd. The dress is lined with a blush pink rayon, which also came via Fabric Planet (from the Venice store, and was the same price). The invisible zipper and TIffany blue lycra I used for the binding were rummaged from my fabric cabinet. Total dress cost: $12

yellow zigzag dress, made by Julianne

I just love the bright lemon yellow! The crisp chevrons are actually composed of tiny triangles. This print is hitting all my buttons.

I didn’t really think about how prone to wrinkles the finished garment would be. Not that I generally look freshly pressed, but I do like to show off my clothes to their best advantage. I must admit, I’m a little disappointed that despite the care I put into constructing the dress, it will always look a little sloppy.

yellow zigzag dress, made by Julianne

Although I’ve only worn the dress once before, the fabric is starting to pill at the underarms. It’s certainly not a disaster, just another disappointment to overcome. This dress may not have the longevity that I was looking forward to as I began to put it together.

yellow zigzag dress, made by julianne

I drafted the basic shift pattern with a muslin (and 2 sleeves with different cap heights!), and the meticulous fitting on the muslin isn’t quite obvious in the shifty doubled rayon. Oh well, I think that attention will pay off in other iterations of the design.

And yes, I am on Instagram now.

MATMOS DRESS

11 March 2014 by Julianne

Finally able to start unclogging the backlog of posts. Mardi Gras costume will be coming soon!

It’s a simple dress, which means it’s versatile and comfortable and fun to wear.

I used a vintage pattern that I borrowed from Caroline; I traced the pattern and forgot to copy the name or number! Luckily I haven’t seen her since then, so I actually still have the pattern in a very safe place, so eventually I can find out the relevant information.

Now I’m wearing it with a silk charmeuse slip, and I stay pretty warm. Without the slip, it’s been perfect for warmer days in Los Angeles on the bicycle. The short hem will be fun in the summer!

It’s made from a silky, slinky rayon. I also used the fabric for a dress shirt for my husband (which I will iron and photograph in New Orleans). The print reminds me of the Matmos from one of my favorite movies, Barbarella: Queen of the Galaxy.

I finished the seams in the serger. There’s a black invisible zip, which should be 6″ longer, but I had this size in my stash and I can easily get the dress over my shoulders (but the hips are another story).

I’m not sure about the neckline. Maybe I want to do something bold, like an appliqué or contrasting collar? Maybe I want it lower? For now, it’s bound in matching bias tape. I’d love any suggestions!